Cardstock is the material most cut files are made for, and it is also where most people meet their first bad cut: torn corners, shapes that will not release, or a design that is cut through in places and still attached in others.
Nearly all of it comes down to four things. Paper weight, blade, mat, and blade age. Settings come last, not first.
Match the setting to the weight, not the brand
Cardstock is sold by weight, and the weight is what your machine cares about.
| Weight | Feel | Design Space setting | Mat |
|---|---|---|---|
| 65 lb | Standard scrapbook cardstock | Cardstock (for intricate cuts) | LightGrip or StandardGrip |
| 80 lb | Heavier, holds a fold well | Medium Cardstock 80 lb | StandardGrip |
| 100 lb+ | Stiff, card-making weight | Heavy Cardstock 100 lb | StandardGrip |
| Glitter or foil | Coated, abrasive | Glitter Cardstock | StandardGrip |
If you do not know the weight, start one step lighter than you think and use the test cut. Cutting too light leaves the shape attached, which you can fix with another pass. Cutting too heavy chews the mat and the blade, which you cannot.
Blade
The fine-point blade handles everything above. It is the right default and the only blade most cardstock projects need.
The deep-point blade is for thicker material like chipboard and heavy poster board, and it is the wrong tool for ordinary cardstock: the steeper angle tears fine detail rather than slicing it.
Blade age matters more than any setting. A blade that has cut a few hundred sheets drags instead of cutting, and drag is what tears small connectors. If a design that used to cut cleanly has started failing, change the blade before you change anything else.